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Review of Body Tonic Retreat at Lou Casteou

May 20, 2020

Mark Hodson, editor of 101 Holidays, gives his verdict on Lou Casteou's Body Tonic luxury retreat. 

I peeled off the boxing gloves, poured some ice-cold water over my head and checked the time. It was 11.30am and we were 90 minutes into our morning exercise session with another two hours to go before lunch. My legs were getting wobbly and I was sweating buckets. “Keep going and drink plenty of water,” barked the trainer, “Big Dave” Higgins. The temperature was 35ºC.

This was not a bootcamp, but an exclusive five-day fitness retreat on the French Riviera. Body Tonic is held in a beautifully-restored chateau, Lou Casteou, set in picturesque grounds between Fréjus and Saint-Raphaël. The aim is to combine hard-core exercise with gourmet food, party nights and Latin American dancing. And it has developed quite a cult following.

The day had started calmly. I threw open the shutters of my room overlooking the infinity pool and padded downstairs for a delicious breakfast buffet, chatting with the ten other guests. One eye on the time, of course, because the fitness regime started at 10am with stretching beside the pool, followed by Boxercise, HIIT training and then a swim before lunch and a well-deserved glass of rose.

The afternoon was a little more sedate. A two-hour coastal hike followed by a salsa class, fancy-dress dinner, then an attempt to dance the Charleston.

Does this sound like your kind of holiday? If so, here’s what to expect.
The château
Lou Casteou is exquisite, lovingly restored and decorated by its owner, Morag McLaren Baxter, who organises half a dozen retreats each year. This is not like staying at a hotel, but more like being a pampered guest at a well-appointed villa. The house was air-conditioned, giving welcome respite from the heatwave that was tearing through France.
  • City skyline

    Photo By: John Doe
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  • The exercise
    Though undeniably tough, the exercise was varied and always injected with a healthy dollop of fun, whether it was body blast, Latino aerobics or TRX and battle ropes. Every session was optional, though most guests stuck to the programme. “Big Dave”, an experienced and charismatic personal trainer, inspired us all to test our own limits. He was assisted by Dan Tegg, an enthusiastic professional tennis and fitness coach.

    The activities
    It would have been tempting to spend the afternoons lazing beside the pool, but every day there were different activities on offer. There was mountain biking, a tennis workshop held at a local club with the head coach and that scenic coastal trek. Dotted throughout the five days were various dance classes including merengue, Angolan Kizomba, Cuban salsa and Semba de Roda. These are taught by two experienced dance tutors, John Hylton and Christian Jean Francois. On the dance floor, I was well outside my comfort zone, but there was a lot of laughter and my partners were very patient.
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    Photo By: John Doe
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  • The food
    Oh yes, the food. When you’re pushing your body to its limits, you don’t just need a lot of food, you want to be rewarded with delicious healthy fare, and that’s what you get here. The menu was both imaginative and comforting, prepared by an expert local chef. A typical lunch buffet might feature sea bass fillets, risotto and several salads, plus a dessert, cheese and biscuits and coffee. Each evening we were served a three-course dinner; a typical menu was aubergine tart with honey and pine nuts followed by sea bass with mango, and lemon meringue tart. It was all superb.

    The guests
    Body Tonic is aimed at all ages and levels of fitness but, judging by my experience, the typical guest is a high-achieving professional, aged 40 to 60, well-travelled, cultured. The majority are female. Because the group is small and the experience is intense, we quickly bonded and became a tight-knit little community. This was aided by the plentiful supply of alcohol. We had a lot of fun.
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    Photo By: John Doe
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  • The verdict
    Although not cheap, the Body Tonic retreat does represent good value for money. Everything is included from the moment you are collected from the airport, and the quality is first class throughout. And it works: I returned home feeling fit, healthy and energetic, and inspired to work harder at my own fitness regime. I’m not surprised that so many guests return time and again.

    The first photograph is by Lou Casteou; the rest are all by the author. ©Mark Hodson
    This article originally featured in 101holidays.co.uk

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    By Morag Mclaren July 29, 2024
    Set on the edge of a pine-tree filled national park near Fréjus, just inland from France’s Cote d’Azur, an hour’s drive from Nice airport, Lou Caste is owned and run by tennis-loving Morag and Chris, this is the dream trip for tennis players who love the sport’s accompanying socials as much as they get off on a sweetly-struck cross-court forehand, and for those who want luxurious, homely accommodation (en-suite bedrooms, pool, terraces, lounges, sea and mountain views) rather than pack-em-all-in-inclusives. For the five-day stay, around 20 players descend on the chateau for morning and afternoon sessions, lunches on the poolside terrace, dressed-up aperitif hour and family-style dinners set in the various vast rooms. If you’re lucky to book in on the April session (there are only a few of these holidays a year here, and spaces sell out fast), it also includes a day trip to the Monte-Carlo tennis masters, one of the ATP Tour’s most spectacular tournaments where the sport’s elite battle it out on the red clay with the Mediterranean shimmering in the background. We were lucky enough to see Djokovic, Sinner and Medvedev — all three in this year’s Wimbledon semi-finals — in one impressive sitting. Back at the hard courts at the charming Golf and Tennis club of Valescure near the chateau (they’re hoping to add some clay courts by next summer, for lovers of the red stuff), the tennis might not be of the same level, but the group’s enthusiasm is equal. Coaching is headed up by James Rose, former director of tennis at La Manga Tennis Academy, and David Tropes, head coach at Valescure. The five hours of tennis a day might sound daunting to anyone who plays irregularly, but it flies by in a flurry of drills, games and mini competitions. The schedule is loose too, allowing people to skip some sessions for guided coastal walks, trips to St Tropez, Fréjus or Saint Raphael, or even an afternoon lazing by the sleek pool. With everyone else at tennis, including owners Morag and Chris, you’ll largely be lounging in total peace. There are a variety of levels, from post-beginner to strong club players learning all aspects of the game: from taking the ball early on the approach shot to knifing slice backhands and gaining extra power on the serve with wrist snap to moving more effectively as a doubles pair. The biggest take-away was that the most crucial thing in tennis is choosing the right shot at the right time. Universally, we left feeling more confident with our shots and tactics and more comfortable lasting out on a sun-beaten court for longer than a five-set Wimbledon final. The tennis is only a part of this dreamy experience though: the breakfast, lunches and dinners put on by the visiting Italian chef couple Matteo and Silvia were the perfect mix of gourmet and homemade. French pastries, fruit, omelettes and strong coffee fuelled you in the morning, lunches of poached salmon, salads and pastas sustained you through the day (a glass or two of Provençal rose helped rather than hindered some people’s games) and big evening feasts with fine wines were a boisterous release, often ending up with a midnight pool competition in the games room downstairs.
    By Morag Mclaren July 29, 2024
    A snippet of the review - "Have you ever marvelled at the swan-like performances magically served up by celebrity dancers on Strictly Come Dancing only two or three weeks after having initially dribbled about like headless chickens? Practice makes perfect and dance is no different. I know we’ve all wanted to trip the light fantastic and impress our partners, family, onlookers or even just our own selves but above hubristic recognition is the universally accepted fact that dance is a joyous and uplifting activity. One hour of salsa dancing is guaranteed to release all the right endorphins to combat stress most effectively and boost your mood and senses. Now what if you could learn to salsa or improve your skills at a gorgeous luxurious holiday retreat in Cote d’Azur with lessons from top professionals, complementary fitness classes to keep you in good shape and the experience further embellished by the most exquisite food and drink in the South of France and an extra dollop of a bunch of lovely people who share the passion for dance but also know how to have a lot of fun. The heady mix of sun, fun, food and dance is the Salsa retreat at Château Lou Casteou, an hour’s drive away from Nice and forty-five minutes from Cannes. It is an immaculately luxurious home-away-from-home run by the lovely couple of Morag and Chris. They offer innovatively packaged experiences variously also focused on tennis and fitness along. Dances covered during the salsa retreat include Cross body salsa, Cuban salsa, Bachata, Kizomba, Chacha, Semba, Merengue, Regaetton, and Funaná! Once bitten, most visitors can’t wait to get back, year on year, to the sheer pleasure of the communal experience at Lou Casteou. It is a destination accommodation with a lovely swimming pool, ensuite bedrooms, wondrous terraces, cosy lounges, and glorious surroundings that boast both sea and mountain views. The charm and grandeur of the property coupled with the owners’ hands-on approach has transformed it into a multi-purpose building which is even available for ‘Shoot & Stay’ rentals with Simon Cowell having used it as the X-Factor ‘Judges’ home in one of the earlier series as well as weddings and special events."
    July 2, 2020
    Lou Casteou's charm and character made it the perfect location for filming France TV's stunning period drama 'Romance'.
    June 1, 2020
    Lou Casteou are delighted to announce dates for October's Let's Salsa luxury dance retreat. Join our award-winning team in this fabulous château set in the south of France from the 8th to the 11th October 2020.
    May 23, 2020
    Indulge in some fabulous R&R at this stunning property just 35 minutes from Cannes. An exquisite turn-of-the-century château that has been tastefully and luxuriously restored to blend traditional design with contemporary touches. Coming up in 2017 you could be ne-tuning your backhand at the Tennis Academy, getting into the groove at the Let’s Salsa retreats, or just indulging in some pampering Côte d’Azur-style with the Body Tonic break.
    May 22, 2020
    Замок Lou Casteou элегантно вписывается в спокойный холмистый ландшафт Валескюра рядом с горами Эстерель. Его архитектонический грандиозный внешний вид отражается в духозахватывающей внутренней декорации: каждый предмет медели — ода ремесленному искусству прошлых лет.
    May 22, 2020
    Elegant schmiegt sich das Château Lou Casteou in die ruhige Hügellandschaft von Valescure in den Ausläufern des Estérel-Gebirges. Sein architektonisch grandioses Äußeres spiegelt sich in der atemberaubenden Innendekoration wider; jedes Möbelstück ist eine Ode an die Handwerkskunst vergangener Zeiten.
    May 22, 2020
    Château Lou Casteou sits elegantly amidst the quiet hills of Valescure, its architectural grandeur matched only by the stunning interior décor, each piece of furniture an ode to the exquisite craftsmen of a bygone era. By Cassandra Tanti of the Riviera Times.
    May 18, 2020
    Lifestyle magazine reports Château Lou Casteou’s ‘Let’s Salsa’ retreat combines all the rhythm and sparkle of Strictly Come Dancing with good exercise, great company and delicious food.
    May 12, 2020
    About Time Magazine ranked Château Lou Casteou's Body Tonic Retreat 'best in France' in their top picks for fitness holidays.
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